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Sump & Seal

The best crawl space vapor barriers

Bare soil evaporates into your house all year. Covering it properly is the cheapest large improvement available under a floor.

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A roll of heavy construction plastic sheeting

Soil under a house is never really dry, and it releases water vapor continuously. Because warm air rises through a building, that vapor does not stay down there — it moves up into the rooms above, carrying the musty smell with it. A sealed vapor barrier is the single most effective thing you can do in a crawl space.

But it is a vapor barrier, not a water barrier. If liquid water collects down there after rain, a sheet of plastic over it traps a pond and changes nothing. Deal with the water first.

Choosing a thickness

ThicknessSuitable forNotes
6 milUnder a slab, never walked onTears under a knee. Not for a crawl space floor
10 mil reinforcedStandard crawl spaceThe practical minimum where anyone enters
12–16 milCrawl spaces used for storageNoticeably tougher, easy to justify
20 milFull encapsulation, frequent accessExpensive, near-indestructible, heavy to handle
What each thickness is actually for

Quick picks

#ProductBest forScorePrice
1
A roll of heavy construction plastic sheeting10-mil reinforced crawl-space vapor barrier10-mil reinforced sheeting, which is the thinnest material that survives being crawled on.
A crawl space anyone will ever enter8.7
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2
Plastic sheeting laid over ground in a construction spaceCrawl-space seam tapePurpose-made seam tape — the difference between a covered crawl space and a sealed one.
The seams, which are where it fails8.6
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Scores are ours and editorial, not lab measurements — see how we pick. Tap a row for the full write-up.

#1

10-mil reinforced crawl-space vapor barrier

10-mil reinforced sheeting, which is the thinnest material that survives being crawled on.

A roll of heavy construction plastic sheeting
8.7/10Our editorial score: 8.7 out of 10
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TypeReinforced polyethylene ground vapor barrier
Thickness10 mil, the usual floor for a crawl space you will ever crawl on
UseFull ground cover, lapped and taped, run up the walls and sealed

Six-mil sheeting is cheap and it tears the first time somebody crawls over it, which means the barrier is compromised the day it is installed. Ten mil reinforced is the practical floor, and the step up to 12 or 20 mil is worth it if the space is used for storage or inspected regularly.

Buy enough to lap generously. Twelve inches at every seam plus six to twelve inches up the walls is the standard, and running short halfway through is a miserable way to spend a Saturday.

  • Reinforced, so a knee or an elbow does not open a hole in it
  • Thick enough to lap, tape and hold a seal over time
  • Widely available in roll widths that suit typical joist bays
  • Heavier and stiffer to drag into position than thin sheeting
  • Needs mechanical fixing up the walls

Specifications from Amazon listing (search).

#2

Crawl-space seam tape

Purpose-made seam tape — the difference between a covered crawl space and a sealed one.

Plastic sheeting laid over ground in a construction space
8.6/10Our editorial score: 8.6 out of 10
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TypeWide polyethylene seam tape for lapping vapor barrier sheets
Why it mattersAn untaped lap is the first place the barrier fails

An untaped lap curls, lifts and lets vapor straight past the barrier. Taping every seam roughly doubles what the same material achieves, and it is the step most often skipped because it is tedious.

Do not substitute duct tape. It does not bond to polyethylene reliably and it lets go within a year or two in a damp crawl space.

  • Formulated to stick to polyethylene, which most general-purpose tapes do not
  • Wide enough to bridge a lap properly
  • Cheap relative to the performance it unlocks
  • Surfaces must be clean and dry or it will not bond
  • Not a substitute for mechanical fixing at the walls

Specifications from Amazon listing (search).

Installing it so it lasts

  1. Deal with standing water firstIf water pools after rain, you need a pit and a pump or a drain to daylight before any plastic goes down. See crawl space sump pumps.
  2. Clear and rake the groundRemove debris, fallen insulation, old vapor barrier and anything sharp. Rake the surface reasonably flat.
  3. Treat any active mold on the joists firstAccess gets significantly worse once the barrier is down and you are trying not to damage it.
  4. Lay with 12-inch lapsWork from one end, overlapping generously. Resist the urge to economize on laps at the far corner.
  5. Tape every seamClean, dry surfaces, firm pressure along the whole length. This is the step that makes the rest of the work count.
  6. Run it up the walls and fix itSix to twelve inches up the foundation wall, sealed with tape or a mechanical fastener strip. Leave the top of the wall visible for termite inspection where that is a local requirement.
Taped plastic sheeting covering crawl space ground
The laps and the wall termination are where a barrier succeeds or fails.

Questions people ask

What thickness vapor barrier for a crawl space?

10 mil reinforced is the practical minimum anywhere people enter; 12 to 20 mil is better for a space used for storage. Six-mil sheeting tears too easily to be worth the labor.

Do I need to tape the seams?

Yes. Untaped laps curl and let vapor around the barrier. Purpose-made seam tape roughly doubles the performance of the same sheeting.

Should the barrier go up the walls?

Yes, six to twelve inches, sealed to the foundation — unless local termite inspection rules require a visible gap at the top of the wall. Check first.

Will a vapor barrier fix standing water?

No. It stops vapor, not liquid water. Standing water needs a pump, a drain or corrected grading before the barrier goes down.

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